The esteemed founder and creative director of Tibi sits down with The Who What Wear Podcast to discuss the genesis of her brand, her new book, and the art of building a timeless wardrobe.
In a fashion landscape increasingly dominated by fleeting trends and algorithmic curation, Amy Smilovic, the visionary founder and creative director of Tibi, stands as a beacon of enduring style and authentic intuition. Smilovic recently graced the airwaves of The Who What Wear Podcast, offering listeners an intimate glimpse into her design philosophy, the evolution of her globally recognized independent brand, and the profound insights gleaned from her latest book, Almost Reckless. The conversation, rich with anecdotes and practical wisdom, underscored the importance of cultivating one’s inner compass, particularly in an era saturated with digital information and the pervasive influence of artificial intelligence.
The podcast, a direct conduit to the minds shaping the fashion and beauty industries, welcomed Smilovic to delve into the core principles that have guided Tibi since its inception in 1997. From its origins in Hong Kong to its current status as a leading independent designer brand, Smilovic shared the strategic decisions and creative impulses that have propelled Tibi forward for nearly three decades. The discussion also touched upon the meticulous process behind designing new collections, the significance of "fundamentals" in a wardrobe, and the surprisingly simple yet profound advice on finding creative inspiration: step outside.
The Genesis and Evolution of Tibi: An Independent Vision
Tibi’s journey began in 1997, a time when the fashion industry was a different landscape. Smilovic, living in Hong Kong, envisioned a brand that would stand apart – independent, creative, and deeply rooted in the spirit of ready-to-wear and sportswear. "Tibi is a global brand. Independent. Always has been," Smilovic stated emphatically during the podcast. This commitment to independence has not only shaped the brand’s ethos but also its longevity. Approaching its 30th anniversary, Tibi proudly holds the distinction of being the oldest, longest-standing independent, and largest designer brand originating from America. This is a rarity in an industry often characterized by acquisitions and consolidations.
Smilovic elaborated on the brand’s core principles, emphasizing a creative-driven approach to fashion. Tibi’s collections, showcased twice a year at prestigious events like New York Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week, are a testament to this philosophy. The brand focuses on creating pieces that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also practical and versatile, designed to be loved and worn for seasons to come. This deliberate approach to design, prioritizing longevity over ephemeral trends, has resonated with a discerning clientele seeking sophisticated yet accessible fashion.
Almost Reckless: Navigating Intuition in the Digital Age
A significant portion of the podcast was dedicated to Smilovic’s second book, Almost Reckless: a Creative and Pragmatic Approach to Taking Risks. The decision to write a second book stemmed from a desire to empower individuals to trust and refine their innate intuition. "The reason why I wrote Almost Reckless was to really help people get their gut back or help refine or develop their own gut," Smilovic explained.
In an era where data and algorithms often dictate choices, Smilovic highlighted the potential pitfalls of over-reliance on external validation. "I think this is so critical right now because you’re in this world of AI. You are drowning in data, and you’ve got algorithms that really present themselves with so much certainty that there is one defined way forward," she observed. "I don’t believe in that at all, and… when we lose our gut and we start to trust only in the algorithm, we start to live life in a rearview mirror, right?"
Almost Reckless serves as a guide for individuals to define their own definition of success and to establish personal principles that act as "guardrails" for their life’s journey. Smilovic articulated that once one understands their core values and establishes these guiding principles, they can move forward with a confidence that might appear "reckless" to others, but is, in fact, deeply grounded and settled. This philosophy extends beyond personal life into professional endeavors, encouraging a bold and decisive approach to decision-making, informed by an inner knowing rather than solely by external metrics.
The Art of Collection Design: Finding Inspiration Beyond the Studio
The creative process behind Tibi’s collections is a subject of perennial interest. Smilovic described her approach as largely organic, often sparked by serendipitous encounters. "It comes when it comes. All of a sudden, you’re on the train, and someone’s got a book cover next to you, and you’re just like, ‘Oh my god, what is that book? What is that book title? What are those colors?’ Then you’re just off and running," she shared.
Crucially, Smilovic emphasized the necessity of stepping away from the immediate work environment to foster creative breakthroughs. "You do have to step outside of your world—in your office or in front of your computer. You have to get outside. That’s the way to make it happen faster," she advised. This act of physical and mental displacement allows for new perspectives and unexpected connections to emerge.
The design process often involves a collaborative effort with her team, notably Traci Bui-Amar. Smilovic described their method of using a shared digital space, like Canva, to "dump in things that we like." This shared visual board becomes a hub for ideas, often leading to lively discussions and debates as they present concepts to each other. This dynamic exchange, where ideas are challenged and refined, is integral to Tibi’s creative output.
Cultivating a Timeless Wardrobe: The Power of Versatile Fundamentals
When asked about the most versatile piece in her current wardrobe, Smilovic immediately pointed to a pair of wide-leg nylon trousers. She highlighted their chameleon-like ability to transition between casual and professional settings. "It looks sporty; it looks business-like. I can turn them into a jogger. I can roll them up," she explained, underscoring the importance of adaptability in clothing.
This concept of "fundamentals" is central to Tibi’s brand philosophy. Smilovic defined these as pieces that have "proved itself so worthy to be in our closet basically forever." While acknowledging that nothing is truly permanent, pieces that achieve "fundamental" status have undergone rigorous testing of their enduring appeal and utility. This approach encourages a mindful approach to consumption, advocating for investing in high-quality, versatile items that form the bedrock of a sustainable and stylish wardrobe.
The podcast segment showcasing Tibi’s offerings provided concrete examples of these versatile pieces. The Crispy Nylon Stella Short, the Ribbed Sweater Tube Top, the Creased Stretch Crepe Racerback Dress, and the Stella Crispy Nylon Pleated Cargo Pant all exemplify Tibi’s commitment to creating garments that blend contemporary aesthetics with timeless wearability. These items, often presented in a range of sophisticated colors and made from durable, high-quality materials, are designed to be mixed, matched, and integrated into a personal style narrative.
Looking Ahead: The Enduring Appeal of Independent Design
Amy Smilovic’s conversation on The Who What Wear Podcast offered a compelling narrative of a brand built on a foundation of integrity, creativity, and a profound understanding of the wearer. Her insights into navigating the complexities of the modern fashion industry, particularly the rise of AI and data-driven decision-making, resonate deeply. By championing intuition and the cultivation of personal style through versatile, enduring pieces, Tibi continues to carve out a unique and influential space in the global fashion arena. The brand’s unwavering commitment to its independent roots and its focus on creating clothing that empowers and inspires undoubtedly set the stage for many more decades of success.
Listeners can tune into The Who What Wear Podcast on YouTube, Apple Podcasts, and Spotify to hear the full, unedited conversation with Amy Smilovic and gain further insights into the minds shaping the fashion and beauty world.
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